Genuine British Army "Gulf War" Issue Desert DPM Trousers (1990 Pattern)

 

The Original Desert Warrior. Vintage "Old School" Ally.

Before the mass-produced CS95 system took over, there was the 1990 Pattern "Tropical" Desert DPM. Rushed into service for Operation Granby (The First Gulf War), these trousers are becoming increasingly rare and are highly prized by collectors and those who prefer the robust feel of older military kit.

Unlike the paper-thin modern equivalents, these are constructed from a heavier, high-cotton content fabric that feels more like a durable pair of jeans than a pajama bottom. If you dislike the "baggy" fit and taped buttons of the CS95, this is the classic cut you’ve been looking for.

 

The "Pre-CS95" Difference

 

1. Traditional "Dish" Buttons The most obvious giveaway. These trousers do not use the large Canadian slotted buttons. Instead, they feature traditional flat matte-plastic "dish" buttons. This gives them a smarter, sharper appearance suitable for cadets or vintage loadouts.

2. Button-Down Belt Loops A unique feature of the 1990/Tropical pattern. The belt loops are secured with buttons (originally designed to allow you to detach a pistol belt without taking it off). This "button-down" look is a signature of the Cold War/Gulf War era kit.

3. Superior Cotton Feel While later trousers went for lightweight quick-drying synthetics, these early issues often feature a 100% Cotton or heavy-cotton blend construction. They are soft against the skin, minimize static, and don't "rustle" when you walk—making them quieter for hunting or stalking.

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Technical Specifications

 

• Pattern: Original British Desert DPM (2-Tone Sand & Brown).

• Era: 1990-1995 (Operation Granby / Pre-Soldier 95).

• Material: High-quality heavy cotton weave (feels softer and thicker than CS95).

• Closure: Zip fly with button waist fastening.

• Pockets:

  • 2x Waist slash pockets.

  • 2x Leg cargo pockets (secured with flat buttons).

  • 1x Rear pocket (Right side only - a classic vintage feature).

• Waist: Side waist adjusters (button tabs or buckles depending on exact contract year) and button-down belt loops.

• Ankles: Drawstring hem ties.

Condition Note: As these are vintage surplus items from the early 90s, shades of Desert DPM may vary slightly (some appear more "pink/tan" due to the early dyes used during the Gulf War rush).

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Perfect For:

 

• Gulf War Reenactment: The only accurate choice for Operation Granby loadouts.

• Bushcraft: The heavy cotton resists fire sparks better than modern synthetics.

• Vintage Military Collectors: A rapidly disappearing piece of history.

• Workwear: Tougher and smarter looking than the baggy CS95 version.

British Army Trouser Size Guide (NATO to Inches)

 

One of the most confusing aspects of buying British Army Surplus is understanding the label. Unlike civilian clothing (e.g., "34 Regular"), military kit uses Metric NATO sizing.

The label will always show three numbers (e.g., 80/88/104). Reading this correctly is the key to getting the right fit.

 

How to Read the Label

 

The numbers always appear in this order: Leg / Waist / Seat.

(All measurements on the label are in Centimeters)

• 1st Number (Leg): The inside leg (inseam) measurement.

• 2nd Number (Waist): The circumference of the waist.

• 3rd Number (Seat): The size of the hips/bum (this is usually proportional to the waist and less critical for fitting).

Example: 80 / 88 / 104

• 80cm Inside Leg (= 31.5")

• 88cm Waist (= 34.5")

• 104cm Seat

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1. Waist Conversion Chart

 

Find your standard civilian waist size below to see which metric number you need.

NATO Size (Label)	Waist (Inches)	Fit Notes
72	28"	Small
76	30"	Medium (Slim)
80	31" - 32"	Medium
84	33"	Medium/Large
88	34" - 35"	Large
92	36"	Large (Generous)
96	37" - 38"	XL
100	39"	XL (Generous)
104	41"	XXL
112	44"	XXXL

Pro Tip: Most British Army trousers (CS95 and MTP) have button adjusters on the waist. This allows you to tighten the waist by about 1-2 inches. It is safer to size up and use the adjusters than to size down.

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2. Leg Length Conversion Chart

 

Match your height or standard inseam to the NATO leg length.

NATO Size (Label)	Leg (Inches)	Civilian Equivalent	Height Guide
70	27" - 27.5"	Extra Short	Up to 5'6"
72	28"	Short	5'6" - 5'7"
75	29" - 29.5"	Regular / Short	5'7" - 5'9"
80	31" - 31.5"	Regular	5'9" - 6'0"
85	33" - 33.5"	Long	6'0" - 6'2"
90	35" - 35.5"	Extra Long	6'2" +

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Common Combinations (Quick Lookup)

 

Here are the most common sizes we stock and their "street" translation:

• 75/80/96: 29" Leg / 31" Waist (Short Medium)

• 80/80/96: 31" Leg / 31" Waist (Regular Medium)

• 80/84/100: 31" Leg / 33" Waist (Regular Large)

• 85/88/104: 33" Leg / 34-35" Waist (Long Large)

• 80/96/112: 31" Leg / 38" Waist (Regular XL)

• 85/104/120: 33" Leg / 41" Waist (Long XXL)

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Important Fitting Advice

 

1. Don't Trust the "Seat": Many customers mistake the third number (Seat) for the Waist size because it is the largest number. Always look at the middle number for the waist.

2. High Rise: Military trousers often have a higher rise (the distance from the crotch to the waistband) than modern jeans. They are designed to sit at your navel, not your hips. If you wear them low on your hips, you may need a slightly smaller leg length than usual.

3. Blousing: If you plan to "blouse" your trousers (tuck them into boots or use twists), a slightly longer leg is better than a shorter one.